On the floor of Rehmat Akbar Khan Remats rocky keep I sat with his son learned about their family history, and the combined history of all the ruling class in the region.

Apparently all of the ruling class trace their ancestry back to the Mongolian ruler Tamerlane (from what is today modern Tajikistan). His son Babar (same name as that French elephant headed children's character!) founded the Moghal Empire (which ultimately ruled the Indian Subcontinent). His son Babar Ayub (same name as the Prince Ayub I knew from Wali's campaign) came to Chitral and married into the ruling Rais Royal Family ruling there. His son, Muhtaram Shah, founded the Katur Dynasty in Chitral and took over.

Today the Katuray caste are princes, the Riza are like local Marquis (like my host Rehmat Akbar Khan Remat). In all there are 21 castes or classes in Chitral and many many subcastes. At the bottom of all of these are the Kalasha people of "Kafiristan."

The guide/porter who had been arranged to go with me up to the pass the next day and all of the servants who had been coming in and out around the house (all wearing very worn and dirty looking ragged clothes and mostly barefoot) belong to the Rayad caste, basically like non-bonded servants/serfs that while legally free do not choose to leave and continue under the age old feudal system.

So while it is romantic on some levels to sonsort and enjoy the hospitality and educated company of the ruling class, I am at the same time benifitting from the spoils of the feudal system.