Arrived in the evening at 3:30 and was guided by the bus staff right to Baal Shamin Hotel. The host Mohammad laid out some excellent terms and after a cursory glance at another place next door I accepted to stay at the Baal Shamin and began enjoying his warm hospitality. I want up to the roof with the helpful orphan boy working here and had my first standstill look at the ruins: visually awe-inspiring temple of Bel and the long colonnade leading out across the desert to the mysterious funeral towers in the shifting sands beneath the large hilltop citadel. Reminded me of my favorite archeological site in India (Hampi), except this was a wonder in the desert oasis instead of the tropical desert of interior Karnataka. The men of Tadmor (the Arabic name of Palmyra) who can speak English are thus far purely devoted to tourism, selling tours, Beduin tent experiences, carpets, food and dates. Their Modus Operandi seems to rely heavily on warmth and tea-giving and instant close friendship followed by emotional blackmail to conduct all spending and money flow in Tadmor through them and their contacts. Under these conditions I imagine the most subtle and charismatic man controls the largest cash flow (and associated heavy commission) – international charisma capitalism.

Evidently there are Gypsy girls at the west edge of town whom one can go see “dance, kiss and fik OK” for about 6 US dollars. Although I am not conceptually against prostitution I found myself emotionally recoiling the first time one of the Palmyra “money managers” mentioned it to me. So I am curious to see the women but find the idea of paying for sex abhorrent. What I need is another young traveler to show up who also wants to check it out and I might then have a look.

Lets see some ruins!