Last night Judit and Michil left for Istambul and Mehmet and I saw them off waving our hats and rubbing our eyes with sorrow. It looked to me like Judit’s eyes were watering. She was a lovely and extremely sophisticated personality. Very warm and cuddlesome. She also made me feel very powerful and desired. I’ll miss her. Her parting may mark the end of the mad girl chasing that was my Turkey.

With the morning came the brutal entrance of freezing snowing winter here. Mehmet invited me to accompany him in delivering the two American Peace Corps Volunteers to Kayseri for their bus to eastern Dyarbakr. A long drive through the desolate Erciyes mountain base, the peak hidden by a rolling black snowstorm. In Kayseri we went to a famous Iskendar Kebap place, paid a lot, and got Doner with too little fat and lamb musk for my taste. The service was impeccable and the atmosphere modern and efficient. I think that Turks are not into that “funky little hole” type of famous restaurant. Best Ekmek Tatla of my life however (a sweet of bread soaked in a light butter, rosewater and sugar syrup).

Dropped the American PCVs off at the bus station and on the way back Mehmet recounted his sexual exploits over the years owning and running a Cappadoccia guesthouse, the apex of which was a private hot spring room enjoyment of two Trans Air stewardesses at one time. His method of transitions from here to there in seduction seemed to be: 1) keep them wondering 2) don’t push 3) and lie to them as much as possible – make yourself bad and poor them surprise them later with luxury. I listened to all this as my feet froze solid, wind seeping in the cracks of the pickup chuffing through the hard ice air across the open streches of black desert around Goreme..

We got back to town and I emailed Asli the unicorn for the last time I think, went to the wine house and watched an amazing percussionist named Ali who recommended the music of now dead Turkish dissident Ahmed Kaya to me.

Turkish Lesson:

People – Ulus
Near – Yakin
Seat – Iskemle
Talking – Konushmak