June 21st, 2002, Written Atop a Ridge Facing Malovitza peak in the Rila Mountains.

Reflections on the Greeks of Thessaloniki, Athos, villages between Thessaloniki and Herso (a small town on the train line to Nea Petritsi):

Very broad and deep culture. The Greeks are Byzantine culture, Constantanopoli was their capitol (now Turkish Istambul) and for 1000 years was the massive cultural mecca of the whole meditteranian world - Paris, London and NY of today combined.

The general American concept of Greece is Gyros, tzatsiki, flaming cheese, Zorba the Greek, dancing in a circle holding hands, white houses, blue beaches, gay men, Ionian columns and statues. This is all there but it is just a fragment of their coastal culture and does not reveal any of the volume of deeply-rooted living culture and sophistication that recognized or not by the Greek himself is present in his attitudes, customs, language. In the western world Greek language seems a standout for its ability to be precise or vague and embody sophisticated concepts in a single word.

- On the surface American heavy metal music seems to have made an impact on young people and their fashion. In terms of style Thessaloniki had for me a very 1980s feel. The women in the 15 to 40 age range wore skimpy clothes (especially open-backed spaghetti strapped open midriff tops - basically like a wide bra) but for all that were astoundingly unsexy. I felt nothing as a witness to all that flesh prarade and wondered whether my visit to Mt. Athos and encounter with Paola had totally extinguished my worldly lust.

- Greeks seem to have systematically replaced their quaint stone houses in villages with what I call "neo-floridian retirement architecture" which, for all its blandness, looks comfortable and many houses have sweet little gardens complete with grape vine trellis and juicy vegitable patch.

- Particularly good peaches and Bing cherries were available while I was there and the baklava and syrup pasteries were the best I have ever had (which means something since I have tasted these pastries hundreds of times in Turkey, US, Syria, Lebannon, Iran and Greece). Flakey yet hearty, juicy with syrup but not too sweet - just the right balance between crunchy and chewy fresh nuts, filo baked right and honey masterpieces.