Far in North West Pakistan lies the ancient former kingdom of a central asian people profoundly affected by the long historical invasions and associations of The Persians, Greeks, Buddhists, Mongolians, Arabs, and British yet thoughout all this have strengthened and maintained their own unique culture.

I was amazed by the reception I received among the Chitralis; from the first days I was picked up in the campaign entourage of the main contestant for Governor of the district (who sat me by his side), met several charming princes, had some injuries treated for free by the Royal border patrol in their hospital, slept in the palace garden of and had breakfast with the hereditary ruler of the Chitral kingdom, stayed with the Ismaili feudal lord of a mountain village and had wonderful encounters with the farming & grazing people of this high mountain world.

There were many interesting contradictions here that seemed to spring up around every corner. For example, I spent my first two weeks getting close to the Kalash and railing against the unceasing efforts of the Chitrali Moslem majority to convert them to Islam (including installing very loudspeakers calling prayers in the few remaining pagan vallies and offer financial incentives to converts), the Chitralis were mostly sunnites and no matter what their social position all wore the same humble shalvar Kameez (pants shirt typical of Pakistani dress), the Taliban over the nearby border of Afghanistan were making great progress in the area trying to foment another Talilban revolution on this side of the border, everywhere Afghan refugees mingled on the the street with the local population - the refugees ranging from stable less recent immigrants from the Russian revolution to the more recent and desperately poor Taliban civil war refugees.


The latter part of my time in Chitral was spent among the Ismailis as I crossed over the high mountain passes on foot out to Gilgit valley. The Ismailis have a hereditary leader called the Aga Khan who is the direct decendant of the prophet and always gives them the latest edition of God's word. They are predictably more progressive and also predictably are therefore seen as heritics by the Taliban.

During my time with the Chitralis I developed some controversial ideas about the relationship of the majority population to the Kalash minority. Despite Chitrali efforts to differentiate their language etc from that of the Kalash I understand that their languages are not really that different. The look of the people is also not really that different either leading me to the conclusion that perhaps all the Chitralis were once Kalash but the Kalash represent those of the indigenous population most resistant to change.

Here are my journal entries to give you an idea of my time there:


The Chitrali Language (named "Khowar")

Breakfast With The Ruler

Staying With The Ismaili Feudals

Crossing on Foot Over the Mountains: Sleeping With The Sheep

My Arrogance, A Poem


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Outside Chitrali Links

Music Clips From Chitral