Salme 
January 28, 2001

Evening. Our little hostess Songita spoke English with an accent that came out sounding like Persian. I tried then to ask her where her mother is in Persian and got a blank stare in return: oh well. As I am sitting here writing this next to a BIG rock that makes the corner of our hotel a procession has come around the corner. “Beeha” or “bibaha” is Nepali for wedding. This is a Sherpa procession with fine clothes, Tibetan-looking dress, a man with a dagger, another with a banner, another with a horn and a monk. Wow! All heading across the river and up the mountain on the other side. Someone tells me they only have two more hours to walk to reach the wedding. A “Rakshi lagyo” or drunk man follows their trail. 

What a cornerstone!

 
Leaving the tourist trail yesterday brought an immediate change in the environment from commercial to AUTHENTIC (and much cheaper). We hiked through many Sherpa villages. At Pupla (with an airstrip) there was a large Buddhist nunnery – many women going down hill to the bazaar to sell something with red skirts and bald heads. After a super-tasty lunch of Thuk-Pa (a Sherpa dish of spaghetti noodles with spicy vegetable broth and eggs if you want ‘em) ra anda at Salleri (I saw Ambir Rai there again) we continued down past increasingly traditional villages. 

On the way what started out as a joke turned into a mutual confession session between Vincent and myself. I confessed the following sins:

-Being rude to my mother sometimes
-Being impatient with others and snapping at them when I have to repeat myself
-Judging others
-Showing off in front of a crowd (I did this at lunch)
-Not noticing what it is other people need (and obviously not responding to their needs)
-Not conveying to others that I am listening when distractions around me drag my attention away from the conversation
-Not controlling my pride which is like a hot air balloon – up one minute and down the next
-Up and down: I just lectured the French nun on charity (when will I learn? – she did some kind of healing move of putting her hands on the drunk man’s forehead)

From my perch next to the huge rock I can see several horses with ghastly sores on their back. The Frenchman of the mountain Christophe says these sores are not from the saddle but from a huge worm.  We then as a group deducted that the sores come from the heavy loads they carry up and down these endless, roadless mountains. Animals we have ENSLAVED. Must add that to the bad Karma that hangs around domesticated man. 

 

Terraces everywhere and in the hillside the water even more beautiful up close Night. Vincent has now very kindly reminded me as we sit by the kitchen fire that I forgot one of my major faults in the confessional earlier - I TALK WAY TOO MUCH! 

Lets talk about solutions (I guess you could say I have a chatty writing style):

1) I should find the middle ground when in a group
2) I should be more selective about what thoughts I share with others 

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